Adelaide
The Sun Herald
Saturday August 17, 1991
ADELADIANS seem to have a fascination for the bizarre. The City of Churches has had some distinctly un-Christian goings-on over the years-grotesque murders, strange disappearances and car racing through the city centre on one Sunday every November.
So it comes as no surprise to find yet one more oddity in this essentially demure city-a roller-coaster ride in a city centre department store.
The multi-million dollar Myer Centre, incorporating Dazzleland, is perhaps an appropriate symbol of the nation's economy and the attitude of Australians to tough times: "Damn the recession, let's have fun."
At the risk of sounding childish, a trip to Dazzleland, with its rides and sideshows set above floors of emporium shopping, has become one of my 10 favourite things to do in Adelaide, my home town.
I would even borrow a couple of kids so I wouldn't look out of place riding the roller-coaster by myself. For children, it's a great way to spend Mum and Dad's money, and for Mum and Dad it's the stuff of long-lost childhood.
But for me, the flip-the-cards, roll-the-dice best thing to do in little old Adelaide is spend some time at the casino.
Built in the old train station, its marble floors and dark-wood walls make it a fancy way to lose a few bucks.
Even if gambling's not your cup of poison and the prospect of dropping a couple of dollars on the roulette wheel leaves you cold, the Pullman restaurant is a good enough reason to visit a truly stylish establishment without risking the family fortune.
The casino is something anyone can do anytime, but a favourite of mine which only rolls around every second year is the Adelaide Festival, a feast of fine international music and theatre.
The next one is in March next year, but it's worth planning for. Interspersed with the best cultural offerings in Australia are some of the worst as amateur performers from all over the nation gather for the Fringe Festival, which sits comfortably alongside the main festival.
A less exciting, though just as enjoyable, pastime is a Sunday drive through the picturesque Adelaide Hills.
The best time is during autumn when the leaves are showy and the nip in the air tempts you into the small towns and pubs.
There are plenty of places to explore off the main roads and dozens of welcoming places in which to lunch by open fires, such as the Inglewood Inn at Inglewood and the Scenic View Hotel at Norton Summit.
Number four on my favourites list is a tour of the Barossa Valley, which is dominated by the heavy German influence that is stamped on many South Australian towns.
Hot-air ballooning over the valley is a way to get naturally high if getting high on the wines in this premier grape-growing district doesn't appeal.
Personally I love sniffing around the smaller wineries checking out their latest offerings.
In April every year is the seven-day Vintage Festival in which thanks is given for the harvest. It's also a good excuse to eat, drink and be merry.
Number five is Glenelg, Adelaide's most popular beach. Ancient trams take you from Victoria Square in the city centre to a beachfront now dominated by the Grand Hotel.
At Glenelg a pleasant way to view the often spectacular sunset over St Vincent's Gulf is from the bar at The Grand. A cheaper and more sober option is to walk the placid beach.
Then there's the ubiquitous Australian Formula One Grand Prix. It's no good looking for any locals at this time of year - they've all gone on holidays to avoid the crowds of thrillseekers that pour in for the noise and excitement of the Big Event.
It's fun to get to the track if you haven't experienced it before, or if you are a die-hard race fan, but you need stamina. They can be four long days
At number seven on my list is Handorf, where the food and ale is the big attraction. This German settlement in the Hills, 30 minutes from Adelaide, boasts a gluttony of fine food and bakery shops, specialising in the rich Bavarian tastes.
Most of the pubs are old and toasting the feet by an open fire while sipping an ale is very tempting. Every January there's the Shutzenfest, which means shooting festival, a vast food, beer and entertainment event.
Just 155kms north of Adelaide lies Burra, still living on the back of its copper mines.
The whole town is a tourist attraction and by getting a key from the tourist office you can explore its history at your leisure.
Here the top mark for accommodation goes to Miss Mabel's Cottage, the oldest house in the district.
The period feel of this cottage is terrific, and so is the $85-a-night price, including breakfast and a bottle of wine.
And just over the hill from Burra is another of South Australia's best wine districts - the Clare Valley.
Finally, I love wandering around Adelaide's botanical gardens with my favourite person, taking in the great new rainforest pavilion, and a coffee and cake at the parklands end of Rundle Street.
Here the Italian cafes spill over onto the pavement and make ideal weekend vantage points for watching the city go by.
If most of these activities seem pretty sedate, that's because that is the nature of Adelaide and its surrounds. Life moves fairly slowly down here.
The standing joke is that Adelaide is a nice place to retire to or bring up kids, which is true, but it's also a great place to wind down from Sydney pace.
After a week or so pottering around Adelaide you won't even mind the way the locals drive.
ROOMS WITH A VIEW
FOR the gambler, the Hyatt Regency has special casino weekends for $169 for two. This includes a bottle of champagne, a keno ticket and a $5 voucher.
If you put the voucher on the joker and it comes up, the night's accommodation is free. The Hyatt is next door to the casino. Bookings: (08)231 1234.
Across the road is the stately Grosvenor on North Terrace, which has rooms from $70 a night. Bookings can be made on (08) 231 2961.
The Grand at Glenelg has rooms for $130 for a standard double without a sea view and $150 with. These prices will go up $15 in October. Reservations can be made on (08) 376 1222.
Further north is Miss Mabel's Cottage in Burra (see main story) which can be had for $85 per night per couple, with a second couple paying $70. The single rate is $55.
Bookings can be made through Cottage Living, 13 The Parade, Norwood, SA 5067, or on (08) 362 3306, which also has other historic houses available.
Cheaper accommodation is available through the Youth Hostels Association, which is based in Giles Street on the eastern side of the city centre. For enquiries, ring (08) 223 6007.
For those who like their breakfast cooked for them and included in the price, there are three bed and breakfast places in Hindley Street, one of the main streets in the city centre.
They are Kiwi Lodge, at Number 226 on (08) 231 2671; City Central, at Number 23 on (08) 231 4049; and West's Private Hotel, at 110b on (08) 231 7575. Nightly tariffs range from $21 to $60.
TABLE MANNERS
A FAVOURITE of mine for a tasty and spicy meal is the Cajun cooking at Bacalls in Melbourne Street, North Adelaide.
Their ribs, blackened fish and huge bowl of hot, local pippies (they call them cockles down south) are terrific. A feature of the place is a wood-fired kiln in which the homemade bread is cooked.
For a stylish lunch, Jolly's Boathouse on Victoria Drive opposite the Torrens Parade Grounds is a must.
Set on the banks of the River Torrens, it's an ideal place to relax and enjoy the boats drifting past and the excellent eclectic menu. Kangaroo steaks and barely cooked tuna steaks are delicious.
For a night on the tracks, there's the Adelaide Tramway Restaurant (see main story). Bookings are essential (they need the notice to print your name on a personalised menu) and they can also organise a limousine to deliver you to the tram. Contact (08) 410 0044.
Further into the suburbs is Jarmer's Restaurant at 297 Kensington Road, Kensington Park. This is a classy place with a quiet, old-style atmosphere.
The desserts here are so good it's almost a pity to eat them. Again the menu is eclectic. For bookings, contact (08) 332 2080.
A good place for a cheap Asian meal is among the hustle and bustle of Central Market, between Gouger and Grote streets. This has a food hall which caters for all manner of tastes.
Also in Gouger Street is one of the delights of Adelaide eating-Paul's Seafood Restaurant. This place is a gem. The food is simple yet delicious and the prices are cheap.
OUT AND ABOUT
A TRAVEL experience which is unique to Adelaide is a trip on the O-Bahn busway. This system allows you to take an ordinary commuter bus from the city centre which transforms itself into a pseudo-train, running at 100km/h on cement rails for 16kms to Tea Tree Gully.
Otherwise, you can hop on the Adelaide Explorer for $14 a day, getting off and on as many times as you wish between sights.
It goes around the city centre, out to Glenelg and West Beach and back again. A commentary is provided.
Hire cars are readily available and apart from the major companies there are smaller independent outfits such as Smile Rent-a-Car.
A number of coach companies run day, half-day and evening tours, offering sightseeing around Adelaide, the wine districts, Victor Harbour and the Goolwa Coast, and the Adelaide Hills.
Among these companies are Premier, Adelaide Sightseeing, Festival Mini Tours and True Blue Tours.
Bookings and inquiries for all tour companies can be directed to Tourism South Australia, 143 King Street, Sydney, on (02) 232 8388.
Two quieter and more sedate ways to see the attractions are by Popeye, and by horse-drawn carriage.
Popeye is the name of several boats drifting lazily up and down the Torrens River from their base at Elder Park in the city.
This is a good way of taking in the cityscape without worrying about the traffic.
The horse-drawn carriage operates in the newly refurbished heritage district of Port Adelaide. Both Popeye and the carriage are easy to find and require no pre-booking.
WINE LINE
ADELAIDE has the good fortune of being close to some of Australia's premier wine regions.
In fact, there were several wineries actually in the suburbs-Stonyfell Winery at Stonyfell, and Seaview's Magill being the two main ones-but the places to go definitely remain the Barossa Valley to the north and McLaren Vale to the south.
Then, of course, there is the Coonawarra in the south-east, the Clare Valley in the mid-north, and the Riverland to the east.
For the daytripper, the choice is between the Barossa and McLaren Vale, both of which produce fine wines and are easily accessible by car or coach.
Both also have food and wine tasting festivals which are a delight. McLaren Vale holds its Wine Festival in October.
FARE GO
ADELAIDE and South Australia are an integral part of Australia's tourism industry so it's no surprise that Compass Airlines has added the City of Churches to its growing air network.
The fledgling airline, which has dared to take on the mighty Ansett and Australian, began daily flights between Sydney and Adelaide a month ago and will expand the network by operating Adelaide-Perth services from September 1
The current Compass one-way Sydney-Adelaide fare costs $180. You'll fly on board spacious and modern A300-600R aircraft and be treated to a level of one-class cabin service which is making the competition sit up and take notice.
For further details on Adelaide and other Compass services, contact 131 600 from anywhere in Australia.
© 1991 The Sun Herald